Chhukha is the district most overland journeys pass through, and the engine room of the kingdom besides: its rivers power the hydroelectric plants whose clean energy keeps Bhutan carbon negative. The old road north climbs through cloud forest where the plain’s heat fades kilometre by kilometre.
Few stay long, but the border town has its own fascination. Two worlds negotiate a single street.
Chhukha is five hours from Thimphu by road, and most guests pass through on the way in or out. One night in Phuentsholing is enough for the Bhutan Gate and Kharbandi Gompa. October to March is the best time. Leave the drive up to Thimphu for daylight.