Mongar is where eastern Bhutan begins. Its dzong was built only in 1930, but entirely by traditional methods, with no nails and no drawings. It anchors a market town where the east’s roads meet. Nearby Drametse monastery gave the kingdom its most celebrated dance, the Nga Cham drum dance, recognised by UNESCO.
Few travellers make it past Bumthang. Those who do find people who are curious, hospitable and surprised to see them.
Mongar is about six hours east of Bumthang over Thrumshing La, so most guests stop at the pass on the way. One night is enough to see the dzong and the market. A second night lets you visit Drametse. October to April is the best time, and the Mongar Tshechu in November is a good reason to come.