Mongar is where eastern Bhutan begins. Its dzong was built only in 1930, but entirely by traditional methods — no nails, no drawings — and it anchors a market town where the east’s roads meet. Nearby Drametse monastery gave the kingdom its most celebrated dance, the Nga Cham drum dance, recognised by UNESCO.
Few travellers make it past Bumthang. The ones who do find the Bhutanese unhurried in a different key — curious, hospitable, and genuinely surprised to see you.