Its villages are known across the kingdom for weaving and for song: the local tradition of ausa, farewell songs performed when guests depart, belongs to these hills. Khar and its surrounding villages keep looms the way other places keep gardens.
Most travellers meet Pemagatshel as a bend in the road between Trashigang and the border. A night here, with an evening of song arranged in a village home, turns geography into memory.