It is the kingdom’s least populated district, guarding the high passes to Tibet. Below the dzong, the Gasa tshachu — hot springs — have drawn Bhutanese pilgrims for centuries; above it, a day’s walk brings you to Laya, home of the Layap people, whose women wear conical bamboo hats and turquoise, and whose yaks own the trails.
This is journey country rather than sightseeing country. You come here to walk, to soak, and to sleep somewhere genuinely far away.