This is the ancestral district of the royal family, whose line traces to Dungkar village here, and it remains one of the least visited corners of the kingdom. The dzong stands on a spur above the Kuri Chhu; the great Guru Rinpoche statue at Takila watches over the valley from a hillside of prayer flags.
Come in the weaving months, sit beside the looms in Khoma, and understand why these cloths are heirlooms before they are ever worn.