Phobjikha is glacial, treeless at its floor, and profoundly quiet. The cranes circle Gangtey Monastery three times when they arrive, or so the valley insists, and nobody who has wintered here argues. Power lines run underground so the birds fly safely; farmhouses burn wood and grow potatoes as they always have.
The district around it is enormous and mostly unvisited — a country of ridge roads, rebuilt Wangdue Dzong, and villages that see one visitor a month.