Western Bhutan

Haa

The valley over the highest pass, opened to travellers only in 2002 and still barely visited.

Altitude 2,670 m Best season April to October Worth 1 to 2 nights Getting there Two hours from Paro over Chele La

Haa opened to travellers only in 2002, and it still receives fewer visitors in a year than Paro sees in a week.

The valley is narrow, pine dark and quietly devout. Its two central temples, the white Lhakhang Karpo and the black Lhakhang Nagpo, predate most of the kingdom’s dzongs.

For travellers who want the Bhutan of thirty years ago with the comforts of a good bed, this is the detour that repays most.

Haa is an easy detour from Paro, about two hours over Chele La, and fits well as a night or two before or after Paro. April to October is the best time to come, and the Haa Summer Festival in July is the best reason. Walks here are gentle and the valley is quiet, which makes it a good place to slow down after the busier valleys.

While You Are Here

Things worth your time

01 Cross Chele La The road from Paro climbs to 3,988 metres. Walk the ridge among the prayer flags before dropping into the valley.
02 Lhakhang Karpo and Lhakhang Nagpo The white temple and the black temple, seventh century twins at the valley's heart.
03 Walk the Haa valley floor Village to village on farm paths, past barley fields, yak herders' winter houses and almost nobody else.
04 A homestay evening Haa does hospitality the old way: the family hearth, butter tea, and a bed above the animals' floor, now with rather better mattresses.
05 Meri Puensum, the three sacred hills Three hills that watch over the valley and are said to be the homes of its protective deities.