The valley is narrow, pine dark and quietly devout — its two central temples, the white Lhakhang Karpo and the black Lhakhang Nagpo, predate most of the kingdom’s dzongs. There are no large hotels and no plans for any. You stay in farmhouses and small lodges, eat what the valley grows, and walk.
For travellers who want the Bhutan of thirty years ago with the comforts of a good bed, this is the detour that repays most.